The Last of LA

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This is the fifth post in a series; sixth if you count the prologue. You really should read them in order, so click on this link for the Prologue or on this link for Part One. And if you want to see all the pictures from this trip, click here. 

Saturday in Los Angeles

 This time we actually made it to the cafe I'd been aiming for the other day, on Wilshire near the Petersen Museum. It's called ... well, now I've forgotten. Cafe Fresco. They've changed their signage but it's the same place I went to last time, on the Stained Glass Trip. Excellent service. Good food, too. I had lox and bagel; it came with huge slices of cucumber and some red onion that made it hard to eat, but well worth the trouble. 

 Since by this point we had pretty much done everything we wanted to do, we decided to take a cruise down toward a part of town we hadn't already seen, and ended up at Venice Beach. Hank's trainer used to work there, at the original Gold's Gym, and had asked Hank to say hello to the manager for him. So we went by there. I dropped Hank off and drove around the block, then found a parking place and just waited until he texted me. The manager wasn't there but Hank got a swag-bag to take back with him. I wonder what's in a gym swag-bag?

 We decided we could just make the 1:30 tour at Paramount Studios, so we drove there. Got there with about 5 minutes to spare. Paid $24 to park but the attendant promised us a refund if we didn't make it to the tour (which was just across the street). Practically ran over there, only to discover that the 1:30 tour was just starting but there were no more spaces available, despite what it says on the web site. "Yeah, I know," said the ticket-office guy, "The web site's wrong." Like it's apparently always wrong. So we got our parking money back and went to the hotel to prepare for the evening's entertainment. Which, considering how tired we'd gotten in three days, was probably a good idea.

delivery robot, Melrose Ave

 The Hollywood Fringe Festival started the day we got to town, and I've kept mentioning to Hank that we should do something. He seemed unexcited by the idea, so I had to insist, and on Saturday night we had dinner at a little Mediterranean place on Melrose, and then walked up to the Actors' Company Other Space for a play. I'd thought it was just around the corner, but I had misremembered the street number, and it was three long blocks away. We still got there in time to see a stageplay called The Altruists, a dark comedy of errors involving people who concern themselves with Causes. We both enjoyed it, and I was happy to have gotten to see something of the Fringe. If I had somebody to go with, I'd come back every year just for that. But I don't.

 We stopped for some gelati before heading back to the hotel, but that was about as much nightlife as the two of us could take.

 Sunday in LA and gone

 We checked out of the hotel and went for breakfast back to the Continental Kitchen, which we'd enjoyed so much the other day; but it doesn't open until 10AM on Sunday, so we went looking for somewhere else. Hank found a place on Google Maps, not too far away, called Lazy Daisy, and despite the unimaginative name, it turned out to be pretty good. Kind of trendy, I guess, but it managed a really good cup of coffee. After relaxing there for a while, we went to Mass at the Good Shepherd Catholic Church on ... Santa Monica? I think so. It was a very diverse congregation, which surprised me. And there were about 300 people in the church, which surprised me even more. Last time I went to a regular mass, there were about 20 old ladies in a gigantic cathedral, and me. That was a long time ago, so I guess the most recent popes have had a positive effect on the Church.

 It was Father's Day (surprised me!) and the homily was all about ... abortion. The priest was agin' it. That did not surprise me.

It's a Jag.

 When mass was over we drove basically across the street and looked for a parking place to go see the Rodeo Drive Concours d'Élégance Car Show (sic). Several blocks of the iconic Beverly Hills shopping street were closed off and loaded down with fancy European sports cars (and a few American products, some old, some just gussied up so they'd seem special) There were a lot that I just didn't bother taking pictures of ... Shelby Cobras, Mustangs, Porches, new Aston Martins, yet another tranche of commonplace Lamborghinis and some of the more ordinary Ferraris, but there were also a lot that I did take pictures of, and I know you're gassed up about the prospect of seeing them; so click on the photo link at the top. Go ahead; I'll wait.

 Having had a nice lunch at a sidewalk cafe nearby (Via Alloro, if you're wondering; Italian, and some of the staff is actually Italian, including one waiter who takes as his model for service the performance of Magenta and Riff Raff in the feast scene of Rocky Horror Picture Show; but otherwise very good), we drove up into the Hollywood Hills to see the ugly new houses. They used to be pretty small places, and kind of ordinary. No longer. They now sprawl across as much land as can be built on, and none that we saw had any architecturally redeeming features. 

 That did it for our guys' weekend in L.A. I drove Hank to the airport, getting there around 4pm, and then took off east for my reserved room in Blythe, on the Arizona state line, and what I'd hoped would be an uneventful drive home. 

 The start of it was inauspicious. First I had to stop in West Covina, just outside LA, for a nap in a shaded spot in a liquor store parking lot, as I found myself almost falling asleep at the wheel. I must have slept for about half an hour, until some guy in a truck that had pulled up next to me unobserved shouted in Spanish to someone else that I was sleeping. That woke me up, and I found myself feeling refreshed. I got to my hotel, a Motel 6, just before 9pm, but there wasn't anyone in the office. Just a sign saying they had "stepped away for a few minutes." I waited a few minutes, then knocked, then tried calling the motel on the local number. It rang for about 5 minutes but nobody ever came. I waited a while longer -- about half an hour all together -- then made a reservation at another motel in the area and left a bad review for the Motel 6. Turns out I'm not the first person that has encountered this eventuality at that motel. If it shows up as a charge on my Master Card bill I'm going to be pissed. I expect to be pissed.

 The Travelodge I moved to wasn't a whole lot better. The new owners had just taken over the day before, a young couple from LA. The first room they gave me was clearly not ready for occupancy, but they found me another one (there were plenty of choices) and in the end I was satisfied with the room, except that somebody in the neighbouring room started slamming doors at 1AM, and the light and fan in the bathroom kept turning itself on. Weird.

 Now, Monday night, I'm in El Paso and have one more day's drive to deal with. My car's "engine coolant low" light has come on again, so I'll top off the reservoir in the morning when it's had time to cool. I know when I open it it's going to be full. It's the sensor; it sticks. If I ignore it the light will go out.

Another Full Day in LA

If you want to be notified of postings on this blog, send me an email at passepartout22@gmail.com and I'll have this platform send you an invitation to subscribe.

This is the fourth post in a series; fifth if you count the prologue. You really should read them in order, so click on this link for the Prologue or on this link for Part One. And if you want to see all the pictures from this trip, click here. 

Friday in Los Angeles

 Friday began with a hunt for an ATM, which really wasn't all that hard to find, it was just hard to get to, because of all the "no left turns" and "no stopping" and "no parking" in the part of town we're in; although since finding one (right down the street about half a mile away) we've passed maybe twenty branches of my bank, and they all have ATMs. Though I've yet to see a drive-up ATM.

 We were looking for a cafe I'd been to a few years ago for breakfast, but we didn't get that far before we spotted a place called Continental Kitchen that looked as good. It actually turned out to be better, and we sat outside on the patio in the marvelous Southern California weather for probably two hours in full-relax mode.

 We had all kinds of things planned for the day, but we never got to them. Instead, the first thing we did took us all day and we haven't finished with it. Or at least I haven't; I'm not sure if Hank has.

The prop horse head from The Godfather

 That was our visit to the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures on Wilshire. The ground floor is just the gift shop, a bar and two restaurants, which took us not much time at all. (An example of the gift shop: I saw a book I thought about buying for $23, but before I did I looked on Amazon and found I could get it for $9. I didn't buy it.) Above the ground floor are three floors of exhibits. I managed to see one of them in the hours before lunch, which we ate at the bar while discussing what we had seen. While Hank had, apparently, zoomed through the second floor without seeing anything, and had gone through the third and fourth floors at his pace, I had spent that same amount of time just on the second floor, where I saw a fascinating exhibit on the Godfather movies; a film called "Image" that presented short exposés on the work of cinematographers, lighting directors, costumers, model-makers and other professions that are involved in the visual realization of a film-maker's ideas; and a film called "Sound" that showed, using the opening scene from Raiders of the Lost Ark, how a soundtrack is created. They were fascinating. I also saw an extensive exhibit on costumes, and a presentation about Oscar winners over the years, which included a number of selected acceptance speeches from history.

 After lunch I went on to the third floor, to see an exhibit called "Hollywoodland" about the Jews who mostly came to Los Angeles to escape Thomas Edison's monopoly claims, and ended up starting most of the major studios between 1905 and 1929. It included a film about their background and their understanding of their roles in the film industry, and while I don't necessarily agree with their view as presented, I think I understand their positions a little better.

 There was also an exhibit about the work of Pedro Almodovár, and behind that, a large room on animation in film; then one about science-fiction film, including special effects and alien make-up. I spent the entire afternoon on that floor and never got to the fourth. Henry, meanwhile, went back to the second floor to see all the exhibits he'd missed after I told him about them; and over dinner I told him about all the exhibits on the third floor that he'd missed. 

 We drove out to Griffith Observatory -- or tried to; there was something going on up there and the police wouldn't let us get to it. So instead we went for dinner to Canter's Deli, which is a place Hank had heard of and wanted to go to. It's on Fairfax, near Television City, and when we got there I realized it was a place I'd eaten last time I was here. Certainly didn't mind eating there again. I had something called The Spicy -- I forget now what that was, but I remember it was good -- and for dessert, Russian coffee cake, a sort of apple cake with vanilla ice cream. Excellent.

 After that, we just cruised through Westwood a little and then went back to the hotel, as we were both barely functional by that point. We had a drink at the bar in the lobby but I couldn't finish mine and just went upstairs. Hank came up soon after.

One Full Day

If you want to be notified of postings on this blog, send me an email at passepartout22@gmail.com and I'll have this platform send you an invitation to subscribe.

This is the third post in a series; fourth if you count the prologue. You really should read them in order, so click on this link for the Prologue or on this link for Part One. And if you want to see all the pictures from this trip, click here. 

Thursday in Los Angeles

 I woke up at about 4AM on Friday morning and realized that I suddenly possessed at complete understanding of the craft of computer coding; that any of the little issues I observed in this, Hank and my first travel experience together, could be solved by simply correcting errors in the coding that created us. We are just characters running in some kind of gigantic complex simulation and yada yada yada

 Then I realized that I could scale up this vast knowledge and expertise I had found within myself, to solve greater problems in the world. I seem to recall it had something to do with the Israel-Hamas war -- this is about where I start forgetting dreams -- and Cheeto Jesus and I was in the middle of composing my Nobel acceptance speech when I drifted back to sleep; and when I woke up again to the cold, grey light of day (because it's dawned cloudy here in Los Angeles) I felt the suspicion that I might not, after all, be awarded a prize for ... well, pretty much anything.

 I've known Hank for more than thirty years now, and we've been good friends for basically all that time. Well, you know, it's easier when you live in separate cities and go for months without exchanging so much as a text greeting, and years without seeing each other. I actually have a lot of acquaintances that I could call friends just on the basis of my relationship with Hank, except that in most of the other cases, I don't have the same good feelings about the other people. I like Hank in a way I don't feel drawn to some of the other relationships that fit the same description. And I think he feels much the same way. Or maybe he's a better actor than I give him credit for. Whatever.

 So this is Hank's first time in L.A., and he's been looking forward to this trip for some time. I have to keep reminding myself how important this long weekend is to him, because his desire to experience the area is a little more spare-no-expense than I can muster; I have, I guess, too many years as a practicing pennypincher to just let go without qualms.

 For example, when we were talking about making this trip, Hank said he wanted to stay in an "iconic" hotel. I pictured in my mind the Beverly Hills Hotel or Chateau Marmont, with their five-hundred-dollars a night rooms, and was so relieved when he said he'd reserved a room in the Beverly Hilton, at less than half that imaginary (though very conservative) rate. In fact, I think I'm using Hank's excited desire to do things like this to conceal my own desires in the same regard: I, too, want to have a spare-no-expense guy's weekend in the Big City, but I don't want to say it out loud. 

downtown LA from our balcony

 So: Thursday. Long day. Fun. But since I've already brought up the hotel, let me start by describing that. It is, as Hank particularly wanted, an iconic hotel. Built in 1955 and often updated, it's had glamourous associations with the film and television industry for its whole existence. It is a nice place, though as often happens with upscale things, there's a certain amount of self-doubting silliness mixed in with its confident display of luxury and comfort. The room isn't large; I have to walk sideways to get into bed. But it is very comfortable and quiet. The best feature is the balcony, where I began writing this. It stretches the full width of the room, with space enough for maybe twenty people to watch a Mardi Gras parade, if one could be induced to pass by. The entire outer wall of the room is double paned glass, in four panels, two of which are huge sliding doors. The double-paned part is important, because another building is going up next door. At the moment, I can see 11 heavy construction machines of the sort my niece gets excited about hard at work destroying whatever was in that space before; but if I go inside, I can barely hear anything.

 The bathroom is relatively large; so large, and so lacking in certain amenities, that when I took a shower I had to lay my towel on the edge of the tub, between the two parts of the shower curtain, because there are not enough hooks and towel bars in the room, and none within reach of the tub, but waaaay over there on the far wall, which let's call Thule. When I pushed the curtain back after my shower, it nearly took the towel with it, into the tub. Not good. There's also a bidet handle attached to the toilet, so this will be my chance to figure out how that works, maybe, though I've never seen one like the one here. Just thinking about it puts me in mind of the Clampett family. And in fact, having looked it over more closely and considered the unlikelihood of my being able to levitate in a seated position over the toilet bowl, along with the effect of gravity on water should I stand to use it, I'm not at all sure that it is meant to be used by normal humans. 

 Now, circling back and progressing in a more orderly chronological style, let me tell you about our first day in LA. 

 I found my cheap Lawndale motel a lot less comfortable in every way than the Beverly Hilton, but wasn't dissatisfied with it. I left there early enough to get breakfast -- oatmeal and fresh fruit at a local chain called the Loaded Cafe -- and get to the airport on a schedule I'd constructed without considering the fickleness of Google Maps. It got me to the vicinity of the airport and then told me "Take the ramp on the right." There were three ramps. I managed to control my anxiety level and selected the second ramp, which I thought looked the likeliest; it turned out to be the wrong one. The Google Maps lady said "Turn left," but there was too much traffic in the intervening two lanes to make a left turn forty feet ahead. Eventually, after she rerouted me five or six times, I pulled up to the cellphone waiting lot. Hank called and said he was at Terminal 7; Google Maps said Terminal 7 was either in Chicago or New York, and after some back and forth during which Hank described the signage around him, I went to the arrivals area and found him. I'll gloss over the trivial intervening anxiety-laden moments in between his call and his collection. Suffice it to say we stayed in phone contact until we actually laid eyes on each other, and described a lot of the physical features of LAX to each other.

 I topped off the gas tank at the first station we came to and we went off to start our Guys' Weekend in the Big City. Don't get any dirty ideas; neither of us is that sort of guy. I might've been so inclined when I was younger (much younger), but if Hank has the slightest inclination in that direction I'd be very surprised. Probably only his priest knows for sure, but I'm betting a second cocktail at the office Christmas party is about as wild as Hank ever gets. We may have different motivations -- I'm old and tired, he's content within his own skin I think -- but it comes to the same thing. 

Point Vicente lighthouse

 We drove all the way down the Palos Verdes Peninsula to Point Vicente Lighthouse, where we could look out across the channel to the offshore islands. The houses, the landscaping, the roads: it was all beautiful. Neither of us had seen it before. We watched the pounding surf and waited for the cliffs along the shore to crumble into the sea, but nothing happened for a while so we got back in the car and drove around to the harbor, where I got a quick shot of the USS Iowa (and now I've seen all four the the Iowa-class battleships from World War II, so there's that off my bucket list. My bucket list is a dull thing.) before going across two high new Harbor Bridges toward the Queen Mary. (I'll skip over the confusion caused by GMaps' vague instructions.)

 The Queen Mary was our real destination for the day. As boys, both Hank and I were fascinated by ocean liners, the huge ships that even then were all but extinct, the stegosaurs of transatlantic transportation. I had worked out my boyish giddiness at seeing this ship twenty-five years ago, on my first visit; Hank got his out of the way on this occasion. We spent a pretty good stretch of time on board, including a very nice lunch in the Promenade Cafe. Late in our visit my knee suddenly started hurting, something that hasn't happened in quite a while, despite the walking and hiking I've been putting it through the last few weeks. Not the grinding pain of my arthritis (though I haven't felt that either) but the sharp unpredictable pain of having turned it somehow. It came and went for an hour or two and hasn't recurred since, but it was enough to get me to go wait at the car while Hank checked out the engine room at the tail-end of our visit.

 After that, we drove up to Beverly Hills and checked into our hotel.

 Hank insisted on taking an Uber to the restaurant because of the traffic (40 minutes to go six miles) and his concern about being able to park there. I wanted to argue: it was too expensive a ride, I like to drive, we could see more in the Jag than in an Uber. But because my crystal ball has a big crack in it, I didn't try the two arguments that might have won the point: that I knew more about the landmarks along the way than our LA-native Uber driver, and that if we had our own car there, it wouldn't take us more than an hour just to get a ride back to the hotel in the middle of the night. Well, who knew.

 Dinner was at Musso & Frank Grill on Hollywood Boulevard, now the oldest restaurant in the city, and one where somewhat-famous people might be spotted in the wild. (They also haven't changed their menu since 1915, so it may now be the only place in town where you can still get calf brains and lamb kidneys.) I'm pretty certain I saw the guy who played Tim Allen's mentor and business partner on Last Man Standing, but I don't remember his name. And the guy across the aisle from us looked more and more familiar as the evening went on, but again, I don't know his name. He just looked like somebody I'd seen on TV.

 (A little later, Nicole Kidman arrived at the Egyptian Theater for a movie premiere, and I got a picture, but I can't see her in it. Still, you know, it was a little exciting. Or it would have been if we'd known she was in the movie, but we didn't know a thing about it. I only took the photo from across the street because people screeched when she got there; I didn't know who they were screeching at; I thought I heard someone call out the name "Kelly.")

 We continued to haemorrhage cash by buying tickets to see a movie in the iconic Grauman's Chinese Theater's main auditorium. It turned out to be a preview of an animated movie that opened the next day, Inside Out 2. Hank and I took turns waking each other up. But it's a beautiful theater, and he gets to cross one more thing off his bucket list. (I also bought a souvenir sweatshirt because, you know, it gets cold in LA when the sun goes down. And I tried to buy tickets to a Fringe Festival stage play on Saturday, but it appears I set up a profile on their web site in 2016, and now I don't know the password.)

 The evening finally came to an end after a shockingly expensive drink at the Library Bar in the Roosevelt Hotel (the iconic Roosevelt Hotel; that's important to my shredded sense of value, which I hope will not be so further strained on this trip). Hank's phone battery had died, and apparently you now have to have the app to get an Uber. The bartender didn't have a charger for his phone, so I said we could just get the hotel to call us a taxi. Turns out not to be that simple anymore, now that everybody's got technology to screw things up.

 Over the course of the last hour and a half of our evening, the valets at the Roosevelt arranged for our transportation, God bless 'em all, with four cab companies. Two never showed up. One showed up, at the other end of the building despite clear instructions, and left because we weren't there. The head valet also had one of his guys go out onto Hollywood Boulevard and flag down a cab in the old fashioned way, but that guy never found his way around the corner to the valet entrance, where we were waiting. Well, eventually one of the cab companies came through and the ride back to the hotel went off without a hitch after that. (And it only cost about half what the Uber ride had cost.)

LA Trip reprise: Havasu Sentence & Escape to LA!

 Monday & Tuesday

 It hit 122 degrees Tuesday afternoon at the house in Havasu. I think that pretty much says it all. Don't you tell me it's a dry heat.

 The highlights of my time in Havasu are as follows: early morning walks around Carly's Island, followed by breakfast at Peggy's Sunrise Cafe, my favourite place in the city; really the only place I've found for a decent breakfast. And I got an oil change in the Jag. I thought when I left home that I could just do it when I got back, but it was already 1400 miles past-due, and I wasn't even to LA yet. So what the hell. And I learned that, if you're looking for a solid career with growth potential, you should open a drive-through oil-change shop in Lake Havasu City. The first shop I called had an opening for a week from Friday. The second could get me in on Monday. Third time was the charm, but it cost me more than twice what it would have back home.

 I decided not to return to Havasu after LA; I wouldn't be able to get there before 10PM or so, and then all I'd do is wake up and shut up the house before heading home. No point, really: it wasn't worth the savings of one extra night in a motel, especially when you consider the added gas to get there, at $5.59 a gallon (for premium).

 So I made a reservation for that first night of the return trip, in Blythe, California. I also made a reservation for Wednesday night at a motel in a suburb called Lawndale, not far from LAX, so it'd be easy to get there to collect the Hankmeister when he got in. Then I checked my route across the Mojave Desert, and went to bed. 

 And finally, I've had three more people compliment the car since I got to Havasu. That alone is worth the extra expense.Well, maybe not, but it doesn't hurt.

 Wednesday, June 12

 I managed to shut the house up pretty quickly; really the only time-consuming part was making the bed. It's so low to the ground that it's difficult to get down there and tuck the sheets in. I was on the road by 6:30, I think. Stopped for coffee at the Running Man C-store in Parker, then crossed into California. My first stop was a small monument on the side of the road to mark one of the desert training bases used during World War II. On the way there a white lizard at least a foot long ran across the road in front of me. I'm not sure if it was an albino or if there's a species of lizard in the Mojave that's actually bright white. But I know it was more than a foot long because it was on both sides of the double yellow stripe in the road at the same time.

 After that I tried to find a place called the Desert Castle, a private home of unusual architecture, but after a dozen turns, alternating right and left, I was faced with nothing but dirt roads. I was hungry by then, so I blew it off and went for a restaurant in Joshua Tree -- the town, not the park. 

 OMG I had the best breakfast I've ever had between San Antonio and Los Angeles! At a place called JT Country Kitchen, I got excellent coffee, three huge Oatmeal Raisin Cookie Pancakes (the special of the day) and a side of perfectly cooked bacon. I'm sure I gained weight just from the aroma. Then back on the road. I decided to top off the gas tank, so I asked Google Maps for a place, selected one, and set off to find it. GMaps took me down the highway heading west for about four miles, then directed me to make a U-turn. Huh? Okay.... Went back east on the highway and found the gas station, next door to the restuarant where I'd had breakfast. 

 Technology.

 So my next stop was at a place called the Devil's Punchbowl. I followed GMaps west until it took me up into the mountains north of the city. Sixteen miles uphill behind a slow truck. Then GMaps directed me to make a U-turn and directed me sixteen miles back the way I'd come. I kid you not.

 As I said: technology. 

 The road I pointlessly went up into the mountains on is one that passes by a cement plant. That cement plant was built by the Los Angeles Metropolitan Water Authority in the 1920s in order to provide concrete for the construction of the famous aqueducts planned by William Mulholland (of Mulholland Drive fame) for the theft of all the water in the Central Valley of California. It's a famous episode replete with corruption and self-dealing, and as it happens I was listening to an audiobook about that very subject the last time I passed that way, on the Stained Glass Trip a few years ago.

 This trip, I'm listening to podcasts (because I'm out of audiobooks). I've been listening to Empire, a series Sherry got us started with on our Condo Trip last month. I've finished all the episodes about India and Pakistan and am now mostly done with the Ottoman Empire. The podcast is presented by two very accomplished historians: a Punjabi woman named Anita something who lives in London and an Englishman named William (his last name is either Drimple or deRimple or Dalrymple, depending on what day it is, I guess) who lives in India and seems to be related to everybody who ever did anything imperial in British history. Anita wants us to believe she's shocked -- shocked, I say -- by all the nonstandard sex around the world, but she can't help raising the question every time there's an opening. And there's always an opening. They both have posh-sounding English accents that are very easy to understand; most of their guest presenters are easy to understand, too, except for one guy who is an authority on Gandhi. He's either Indian or Pakistani, I believe, and it sounded like he was standing in a cave and chewing on licorice while speaking in a heavy South Asian accent. I gave up on that episode.

 But most of the time it's a hoot, listening to erudite scholars talk so enthusiastically about things that I, at best, knew only a bare minimum about. Most of what they discuss, I had no idea about before, so it's fascinating stuff. (I also listened to five episodes out of order about the United States' founding fathers. I did not find those five episodes as interesting, partly because I already knew most of it better than the two of them seemed to, and partly because they seemed to want to focus entirely on sex and slavery, especially where those two subjects intersect.) Anyway, I heartily recommend the podcast series to anyone who's interested in history other than US history.

The Devil's Punchbowl

 I finally reached the Los Angeles County Park called the Devil's Punchbowl. It features an interesting sandstone outcropping lying in a small valley. I started to walk down but I didn't relish the prospect of walking back up in the heat, so I just took some pictures and went to the park office, where they have specimens of some of the local fauna and flora. Nearby is a small altar or a big bench built of rocks, and on the side of it there are two round light-coloured stones. Each one had a bronze lizard on it. At first I thought they were actually bronze lizard statues placed there for decoration, but when I shook my phone to turn on the camera they both took off. I managed to get a picture of one.

 From there I went to check out two musical roads. 

 Here's the story, as I understand it from several sources: Some years ago, Honda wanted to do a car commercial wherein their car drives along and the road noise plays a familiar tune. They hired somebody to cut grooves in a public road in Lancaster, California, and shot their commercial. They left the grooved road behind. It attracted people from all over, excited to drive down this road in a residential area of town and listen to the 30 seconds of familiar music. People who lived there got pissed at all the traffic zipping up and down their road, so the city paved over it. Then other people started complaining because they wanted the experience. So the city contacted somebody who'd been involved in setting up the original musical road for instructions, and hired somebody to put it back in, but in a more remote area of the same road -- way out on the way to the little-used airport.

 Sadly, the person cutting the second set of grooves didn't quite understand the instructions, and as a result, the grooves are not quite correctly spaced. Here's what it sounds like now (the music starts at about 19 seconds in; sorry about that):

 So this musical and technical failure so exorcised a local citizen that he decided to show the City of Lancaster how it's done, and he got permission from the neighbouring city of Palmdale to cut grooves into one of their roadways (though he only did a narrow strip along the road edge; much cheaper that way). It sounds like this (I missed the first few notes, but the music starts at about 8 seconds):

 So there.

 My last stop before braving the permanent rush-hour traffic of Los Angeles was Vasquez Rocks, a famous film shooting site. In the visitor's center there were posters for a number of films that had been shot out there, but I was only interested in the spot used in the Star Trek original-series episode called "Arena," where a busybody race called the Metrons force Captain Kirk to fight the unnamed captain of the Gorn spaceship that the Enterprise has been pursuing through Metron space. It was also the site where Sheldon, Leonard, Raj and Howard were humiliated in The Big Bang Theory while photographing themselves in Star Trek costumes. 

 Turns out the two episodes were shot at a place called The Famous Rocks. How apt.

The Famous Vasquez Rocks

 I drove into LA from there, top down. As I crested the mountain by the Getty Center on Interstate 5 I was hit by a wave of cool air. I just that moment, the outside temperature dropped from about 90 to 75. Sweet.

 So now I'm settled into an inexpensive motel in Lawndale, ready to head out to LAX in the morning.