Saturday, August 20, 2022

KCMI Trip: The Excitement Builds

 Planning a trip is almost always more fun than actually taking it. Planning costs nothing, fills time admirably, and is an infinitely flexible undertaking with no calories. There is no chance of car trouble, or flight cancellations, or weather delays, or lost reservations, or pickpockets, or unexpected charges or medical contamination. There are no impulse buys to tempt me in the planning stage.

 I always think about the trip to Portugal for the 2002 Euros: spent months thinking about it, planning it, researching air fares and hotels and figuring out what to see and do (besides the matches, of course). It was going to be a great trip. Then the dollar's exchange rate tanked and my $12,000 trip for two became more like $18,000; so we decided to stay home, drink some Madeira (which we didn't), listen to some fado music, and watch the games on TV. It was still great. 

 So: at the moment I'm planning my next Big Trip. I have three stained glass panels to deliver and install in a house in Kansas City, so I know I'll actually make this trip, at least that far. These panels took me about a year to build, so I'm not about to change my mind. And as long as I'm going as far as Kansas City, I figure I might as well wander around the country some: visit some of those counties I've never been to, and see some more of this part of the world that I think of as Home. 

 There's not really that much of it that I haven't already been to; 135 counties (in 14 states; plus Alaska, which has no counties) out of about 3,000. Consulting my maps of what remains, I decided that Michigan, with twenty counties to target, was the place to go. It suited the time available to me (limited as always by my level of tolerance for being away from home, and, in this case, the need to get ready for the next trip, an annual excursion to the Mojave desert), and it was vaguely in the same direction as Kansas City. And along the way, with only a slight bit of backtracking, I could also pass through some other, less beckoning counties, in Nebraska and Iowa. And on the way back -- if I stick to the plan -- I could visit the few remaining counties in Kentucky and Tennessee. 

 I don't usually stick to the plan. Every intersection is an opportunity to change course, so despite the detailed plans I make I seldom feel at all reluctant to discard them because some sign on the side of the road alerts me to something that I hadn't planned on, be it a giant ball of string or paint, or an oddly-designed pedestrian bridge. This is OK.

 But because there are now so few counties left to colour in on my map of Where I've Been, I find I need another meaningless concept to draw me out from Paradise South. And I've found it, in the form of automotive museums. Who knew there were so many of them around, and so nicely scattered as to justify a trip in any direction? Well, I can tell you right now that, much as I enjoy car museums, I've overloaded this trip with them: 17, at last count. So I'm pretty sure that at least some of them will be left out: put off for a later visit, or skipped altogether. (There are five of them in one commercial subdivision in western Michigan alone; I plan to visit all of them, but don't be surprised if I decide not to.)

 In addition to the dozen or so things I've identified as worth seeing or doing in Kansas City itself while I'm there -- mostly things I won't have time for; I'm only going to be there two days and three nights -- I have an itinerary of 180 waypoints spread over more than 5,200 miles. Just the leg from San Antonio to Kansas City, normally a day-and-a-half drive, I expect will take four days. A few waypoints are just points on a highway that I had to include to make the route go through a particular county; but there are also a couple of dozen additional points of interest that are "on the side" -- places I might decide to go to but am not planning on. Places that are plan-adjacent, put on my map for awareness purposes. Maybe, when I get to Tulsa, for example, I'll actually feel like spending a couple of hours in the interesting-sounding art museum, even though I'm pretty sure I'm going to spend at least that long in the art museum in Kansas City. That's just how I roll. (I'm more likely to skip the ice-cream parlour in Tulsa, because I now know that I'll be able to get Superman ice cream in Michigan.)

 In the Olde Days, I'd just pick a place on a map, call it a destination, and see what there was to see between Here and There and Back. Now, of course, there's the Internet, which makes it all so much more complicated. I have Roadtrippers to build the itinerary on, and Roadside America to alert me to the view-worthy weirdness that lies along the backroads. And Atlas Obscura. And OnlyInYourState.com. And a nearly useless site called Make My Drive Fun. (I say nearly useless because, no matter what I plug in as starting and ending points, it tends to show me routes that begin in Lisbon, Portugal, and end thousands of miles away in Russia or southeast Asia. And even when I get the route I'm looking for, the preview of the interesting points identified along the way tend to be described as a convent in Barcelona or a medieval building in Romania.) And there's AutomotiveMuseumGuide.com, and any state I go through has web sites of its own to "aid" my research. And books! I recently was given a book called USA State By State; but that turns out to be an actually useful first resource.

the best part of Condo Week
 I usually take several of these wandering trips a year. During the pandemic, I still managed a trip to Ohio, and another around East Texas, and another to Park City, Utah, and another to Los Angeles. And I may be forgetting some. That's why I take pictures. But this year I've been homebound. Early in the year I couldn't go anywhere because the top mechanism on the convertible wasn't working; once I got that fixed, I had to stay home because my wife had a trip already planned, and somebody has to stay home and look after the dog. Then I needed to get the stained glass panels finished, a task that was interrupted by our annual Condo Week, this time close by in Corpus Christi (and, of course, by my Olympian procrastination skills). Once the panels were ready to go, I had to stay home and look after the dog again because my wife had a tournament out of town. Then the weather was too hot to go anywhere. It'll still be too hot when I leave -- as I write this for later publication, I'm a little more than a week out from T-Day. But because of the timing of the annual Mojave Desert Classic, which can't be shifted, I have to be back from this trip by a certain day in September. So: August it is, and pray that the Midwest doesn't get another heat wave like the one they had earlier this summer.

 Since I'm travelling alone this time, I expect to have plenty of free time in the evenings to sort through my pictures and write blog posts. This is your warning to expect them.

Tuesday, May 24, 2022

2022 Condo Trip, Part Four: Winding Down

 

 This is part four of the trip narrative; you should read them in order. Click on this link to go to the beginning, then click on "Newer Post" to move through to the end.  (And here's a link to all the pictures from the trip.)

So there had been some discussion of Beeville's relationship to NAS-CCAD, and I decided that we would take the old highway back to San Antonio. That would take us through Beeville, and I hadn't been that way in many years, probably since I-37 opened decades ago. We left Corpus early enough to get home and collect Carly from the kennel before 2pm, which was my goal. Our drive took us north on Padre Island, across Aransas Pass on the ferry (one of only two, it appears, still operating in Texas; the other being at Point Bolivar, near Galveston), and through towns that echo almost emptily in my memory: Sinton, Karnes City, Poth, Floresville. It was like seeing an old TV show that you know you've seen before, but remember nothing about. With one exception: a hall in Karnes City that I recognise as having been to, but I couldn't say why. I suspect it has something to do with my ex-wife's family. They were from down that way, though the ones I knew best all lived in San Antonio, if not even farther north.

Nancy & Jeff stayed with us four nights. During that time we spent the hot parts of the days holed up in the house, mostly, though Nancy did get interested in the history & architecture of the grand palaces littering the curbsides in Monte Vista. Jeff was in the midst of reading an early Tom Clancy novel, and as any fan of that genre knows, such books cannot easily be put down. It was achingly difficult for him, I'm sure, to lay his phone aside long enough to join us for dinner. (I sometimes suffer from the same "social" affliction.)

I had had the rare foresight to call earlier in the week to reserve a Friday-night table on the patio at La Fonda, our favourite local restaurant, and we got lucky, weather-wise: dry, not too hot. It was one of the great meals of recent history (even though the waiter got my order wrong; but a good frozen margarita will cover a host of sins), and one of the most relaxing.

Not Good Enough
We did make a few excursions around town before they had to go back to Colorado: on Saturday to Mission Espada, for example, because it's a San Antonio thing to do and Nancy wanted to take a picture of a nearby street sign. (I showed her my picture of it, but that wasn't good enough: she wanted her own picture to send to people. You understand how that is: you don't want to send it out and have to say you didn't actually go there yourself....) So we got the picture and spent a pleasant half hour or so at Espada, then drove up to the 18th-Century acequia, which was closed but visible from the street; and on to Mission ... I forget which; whichever one is the next to the north. Either Concepción or San Juan. I don't remember which is which, and I'm too lazy to look it up. You wanna know? Try Google Maps.

Our next destination was Blue Star. When we got there all the shops were already closed, but our main reason for going was dinner at the craft brewery located there. As Texas craft breweries go, this one is ancient; it's been there for more than 25 years. They did not accomplish that remarkable longevity by savvy management of the restaurant side of the business. The phrase pinche servicio sounded in my head in the voice of a friend from The Old Days. It got better after we trapped a young man named Alfonso, whom I took to be a bartender, and got him to wait on us. There were a couple of other servers making rare appearances in the dining room, but no one reliable. Sherry got Pig Pie, while I just ordered the loaded nachos. Both were good, though the nachos could easily have been better (i.e., they needed more cheese). Everyone enjoyed their drinks, too, as one would expect. (I had water; I was driving.)

Ooh! So close!

On Sunday we headed over to the Winchester for the final day of competition in the English Premier League. Liverpool would have won the league if Aston Villa's defense had come back on the pitch after halftime at City; Tottenham made sure they finished ahead of archrivals Arsenal; and (yay!) Burnley got relegated while Leeds stayed up. Afterwards we lazed around the house, mostly, until around four in the afternoon, when we suddenly got ambitious and drove downtown for a little sightseeing. We caught a bit of the Alamo grounds before its 5:30 closing -- it's showing signs of significant improvement in the story it tells since the Daughters of the Republic of Texas got relieved of custody (ironically, an event neatly glossed over in the story's telling). We then strolled over to the Riverwalk and down to La Villita, seeing the chapel where Sherry & I got married ("the scene of the crime," said Nancy, but we love her anyway), then decided to go for dinner at Schilo's, which has the best German food in town, and both Sherry and Jeff are particularly partial to that cuisine. Unfortunately, Schilo's has changed its hours and now closes after lunch. Sad. I was all set for their split pea soup and some kind of sausage or sandwich. 

None of the other downtown restaurants appealed to us, so we decided to try Paesano's in Alamo Heights. (I know, they have a location on the River, but A Certain Person didn't want to walk the block and a half to get there.) We called on the way over but couldn't get an answer; so we ended up going to Pesto's instead, which is always good. (And it turns out that they now have a location downtown as well, but it would have been two whole blocks to walk there.) And they have a Mediterranean salad very similar to the one I would have ordered at Paesano's, the only difference being that they batter their chicken in Romano cheese, while Paesano's uses Parmesan. Just different enough to be distinct. Mwah. About the only major difference is the bread: Paesano's offers a selection of four different breads: one very good, two excellent, and one outstanding; while Pesto has recently changed its bread offering; sadly, not for the better. What they serve now is merely very good, whereas before it was good enough to be The Best Reason to go there. Now the rest of the food has to fill that role.

We did do other things besides eat while they were here: we played board games, watched some TV (neither of them had ever watched some of our favourite shows, so now they have an idea of what Mom and Schitt's Creek are all about), talked about literature and art and philosophy, and played with the dog. All in all, the best things to do with our time.


2022 Condo Trip, Part Three: Wednesday & Thursday

 This is part three of the trip narrative; you should read them in order. Click on this link to go to the beginning, then click on "Newer Post" to move through to the end.  (And here's a link to all the pictures from the trip.)

We just had to go back to the beach. I got a couple of tacos to go from La Isla, the pretty good Mexican restaurant on the highway near our condo, then we drove down to the National Seashore again. This time we filled up three garbage bags with detritus from the beach, so it felt like we had done some good in the world. Considering how much litter was left behind, not so much....

We stayed out there for a few hours; Nancy and Sherry saw a green turtle in the water near shore, but otherwise it was an uneventful morning. Very relaxing. Jeff stayed behind at the condo for some Me-Time. I spent the whole morning reading the Grey Man novel I've got checked out. (Q.v. Tom Clancy, in Part Four of this post.)

We grabbed sandwiches from Subway for lunch at the condo, then sat around relaxing until late afternoon, when we all put on our bowling shirts and went to the lanes on the grounds of the Naval Air Station. We were the only people in the place, which was kind of nice. Nancy and Sherry bowl about as well as they did when we first started the Once-a-Year Bowling League, but Jeff & I have deteriorated. I used to bowl around 135, year in and year out. The past couple of years, though, I can't even break 100. Now that the arthritis in my knee has gotten to be a problem, it's really hard to get down low enough to release the ball the way I used to. So I've had to change the motion I use for this sport. It helped, a little: in the first game I bowled a 62, but on the second game I got up to 89. Still kind of embarrassing, but not mortifying.

For dinner we went to the little Thai place right by the entrance to our subdivision. The green curry there is as good as what we get back home, but the other dish we got, mixed vegetables with chicken, was a little disappointing, just because the chicken seemed kind of dry. But otherwise, it was a pleasant meal: good service, good prices. And we had plenty of leftovers to bring back for a late-night snack.

Games night at the condo was a version of Canasta called Salsa. I generally avoid playing card games other than solitaire, and now I remember why. Of course, that aversion is easier to exercise when there are foursomes available without my participation.

Thursday, our last day in town, started with a solo trip down to La Isla for some tacos de machacado con huevo a la mexicana and not-bad coffee, then a group excursion to the Corpus Christi Museum of Science and Nature. This is, unfortunately, the time of year when local schools, desperate to keep the kids engaged before summer break, take all their field trips. With the exception implied by that, the museum was interesting enough to occupy a good bit of our day. It had small exhibits on Texas geology; an exhibit focussed on the 1542 wreck of three Spanish ships on Padre Island; local history; and dinosaurs. There may have been other exhibits -- there was quite a lot, I think, of the building that I didn't get to before it was time for lunch, which we had nearby at Brewster Street Ice House, a restaurant and dance hall just beyond the Harbor Bridge's elevated approach ramp. It was pretty well past the lunch rush, so that was good. The food was traditional American -- burgers and such -- and I indulged myself by actually ordering a chicken-fried steak. Usually I think about it, then order something more nutritionally responsible, but this time I followed through, mostly because they bill it as "award-winning." I think it must have been a county-wide competition, at best, but there's really no such thing as bad chicken-fried steak, is there? My dog says there isn't.

Olympic (detail)
Next we went to the Art Museum of South Texas, which is currently free to visit because of some corporate sponsorship or something; I didn't really hear the explanation. I'm tempted to make remarks like "you get what you pay for," but the fact is the exhibits that were open for viewing were interesting. I was particularly taken with a painting called Olympic, depicting a deepwater shipwreck (it felt familiar; I may have seen it last time I was here, hundreds of years ago), and the small collection of Western Art. There's also a visually intriguing 8-foot-tall shard-like sculpture of black-painted bronze that, for some reason, is tucked away in a back room where no one but museum staff will see it unless they're lost.

I call it "the shard"

A lot of the art on display is modern. Call it what you will -- and artsy-fartsy types have names for every type of art, even if their categories seem to include only a single work -- it's basically meaningless crap to me: beach chairs collected into a pair of big balls was okay in a whimsical way; a boat made out of reeds (it looks like) and a "gravity table" were at least mildly interesting for their form. Some of the large canvases were attractive even if devoid of readily discernible meaning. That abstract kind of painting always seems to me to only exist for decoration, not meaning: "We just need a reddish painting to set off the color of the Lazy-Boy." 

There's also a pair of rooms dedicated to Spanish Colonial art. The first room contains paintings from the actual Spanish Colonial period, mostly religious themes. The second contains what I'd call a modern take on it, or Mexican folk-art: bright colored painting of religious themes heavily leaning toward pre-Christian styles. It's not bad, it's just irrelevant to me; kind of like Plains Indian art, language and religion. It's nothing to do with my own culture except by the slightest of impact. If there are aspects of it that truly have meaning, they gradually get absorbed into my cultural heritage, like breakfast tacos or cowboy hats. If not, they remain as exotic affectations. 

Oh, and there's yet another Dale Chihuly assemblage of seaweed-shaped glass, such as can be seen in any wannabe-arty institution with enough money. I really wish he would have a third idea.

Dinner that night was random. I had the leftover curry from the night before; I don't know what anyone else had. 

2022 Condo Trip, Part Two: Monday & Tuesday

This is part two of the trip narrative; you should read them in order. If you haven't read Part One, click on this link.  (And here's a link to all the pictures from the trip.)

 The Laredo Taco Company is the name of a chain of convenience-store taco stands around South Texas. Being something of an aficionado of the taco, I felt no compunction about pooh-poohing the untried quality of their wares. But then a neighbour of mine, seeing one of their locations in passing, reminisced fondly about the old days when she and her colleagues would get lunch there, to go. Having spotted no real taquerías in the immediate vicinity of our condo, I decided this was the time to give it a try.

To my surprise, it was not simply a heat lamp over a supply of ready-made tacos bound in foil, but a Subway-style collection of ingredients with a grill at the ready. I ordered a bacon-and-egg taco on corn, and a potato-and-egg taco, also on corn, with cheese on both. My first hint that this breakfast would confirm my prejudices came when the woman behind the counter looked at me in amazement and said, disbelievingly, "On corn?" I assured her that was what I had said. It provoked an urgent whispered conference with her associate while I went to the register and paid.

I collected my tacos in a brown-paper bag and went back to the condo for breakfast. On unwrapping the tacos, I found that their corn tortillas were the poor-quality dry five-inch circles of masa one gets in plastic pouches at HEB. They are too small for the use to which Laredo Taco Company puts them, so each taco had two tortillas enclosing it. (Double the deficiency.) As concerns the quantity of filling, that is a point in their favour. As for the quality, it was reasonably good. The eggs were cooked very nicely, and they and the additives were plentiful. But wouldn't you think that you could tell the difference, by taste if not appearance, between potatoes and bacon? I could not. And the bag, I found, did not include any kind of salsa, which made for a serious lack. (There probably were salsa options available at the shop, but I didn't notice any.) All in all, a dissatisfying breakfast, but I may try them again in a day or two, with flour tortillas and a search for condiments. At least the service was reasonably good and the price was not outrageous. Besides, if there aren't any other taco options, I'll be desperate.

Having thus fortified myself, I was able to cart this menagerie of people down the road to the beach in the National Seashore, where we spent the rest of the morning. The park service gives out garbage bags at the visitors' center, to encourage users to clean up little patches of beach around them. We took one, and had it full inside of an hour. Next time we'll take more, as there's plenty of trash washed up from Points South along the Padre Island strand. (The park ranger says that's where most of it comes from.) We set up our new beach umbrella (not the one we bought in San Antonio and left sitting in our garage, but the one we bought to replace it) and put out a kind of plastic rug under it, weighted down by sand in the pockets provided for that purpose, and made good use of the water and the beach for the rest of the morning. Nancy even saw a sea turtle -- a smallish one -- in the water. 

We grabbed food to go from Subway and relaxed at our condo for the rest of the day, until dinner at Doc's, a two-storey restaurant that has, at some point in the past fifty years, joined Snoopy's out on the island facing our back deck. Personally, I prefer Doc's to Snoopy's: it offers table service and the margaritas are better. And it offers live music upstairs, which I enjoyed. (I'm often surprised by the fact that so much live music is geared toward people who came of age before Friends debuted.) 

We dragged our sated bellies back to the condo just in time to see the sun sink behind Snoopy's, then turned our attention to the games table. Monday night we cracked open Scattergories, which Nancy & Jeff had never played (and Sherry and I hadn't played in decades), and went through five rounds. Sherry won one round convincingly; she and I drew the rest, or won by no more than a single point.

one of the sea turtles

Our plan for Tuesday was to go first to the State Aquarium, and then the local museum of science and history. We got out to North Beach just before 11 in the morning, and ended up staying at the aquarium until almost five PM. It consists of two main exhibits: the Gulf and the (new) Caribbean halls, plus some exterior exhibits on particular animals: dophins, otters, rays, turtles, etc. 

We saw the dolphin show first. I found myself wondering if those animals, who had all been in the aquarium at least 15 years (one, twice that long) felt any sense of imprisonment, or if they were like dogs, happy to be kept as a pet. (I also wonder why it is that all the trainers -- presumably a position of some glamour in the hierarchy of the aquarium, are female, but let's not go there.) Next, we went to the Turtle Talk, and heard (through an irritatingly static-y headset) about the various rescue turtles in the aquarium. They only keep the ones that are too seriously injured to release into the wild, and have five on hand now. One has air bubbles trapped under her shell and can't descend in the water; another has only one flipper remaining after getting tangled in fishing line. I forget what injuries the others have sustained, but I'm thankful that there's a place where they can at least live out their lives unthreatened.

Nancy and Sherry went to see a film about octopi that afternoon. I was in the Gulf section, watching people in front of the oil-platform exhibit, when I got a text that said "We are going to see the octopus movie. Go through the gift shop." So when they closed the theater doors and the movie started I was in the gift shop, trying to figure out why Nancy considered it a Must-See part of the aquarium. (It definitely isn't.) It sounded afterwards like the octopus movie was a highlight of our visit, though; or at least, was for them & would have been for me.

Dinner Tuesday night was at a little Mexican place just outside the subdivision we're in, a place called Isla. Good service, good prices, way too much food. I thought the seasonings were a little heavy-handed, but nothing really to bitch about, damn it. None of us was able to finish our plates. (We did, though, finish our margaritas....)

We came back to play a few rounds of Hoopla before switching to Scattergories. It almost came to blows when Jeff insisted on credit for his answer to "things that are sticky": A pointed stick. ("Ask Ali, what's stickier than a pointed stick?" I didn't get the reference, but can imagine what it's about. But I still insisted that a pointed stick is NOT "sticky.") In return, he argued against my later answer to "countries that start with O" --  Oesterreich -- but that was just petty revenge: if you don't use the umlaut, it starts with O. (And if you do, it starts with Ö, and isn't that an 'O'?) Anyway, we all got over it and played probably three rounds of the game. Sherry won one round, and we tied once. She was all like "I finally won one," as though it had never happened, like I win all the time. I don't, but she like to feel oppressed. I'm not saying it's her fault, I'm just saying I blame her.


THE ADVENTURE RESUMES: Condo Trip 2022

This is Part One. Please read them in order. All the pictures from the entire trip are available here

Sunset over Laguna Madre from our condo's deck

 A stroke of good luck: Nancy's flight was 3 minutes late; Jeff's was 11 minutes late. So they each arrived in San Antonio at exactly the same time, from opposite sides of the country. It being just after lunchtime, we made our first stop at Beto's Alt-Mex, not far from the airport, for some excellent fish tacos (and something else, also excellent, for the member of our party who doesn't care for fish), then headed off down the highway for the coast.

Corpus Christi skyline
I looked on every website I could think of for interesting things staged between San Antonio and Corpus Christi. There are none. The South Texas Plain sweeps relentlessly to the Gulf without a pause for interest, or history, or culture, or even whimsy. The only thing remotely worth investigating is the Lipantitlan Battlefield, about 30 miles west of Corpus, where the Spanish in the 1780s -- and later, the Mexicans -- erected a sorry excuse for a fortress (one historian compared it unfavourably to a "second-rate hog pen") to exercise control over the area, when sovereignty was threatened by outsiders or, later, revolution. In 1835 a detachment from the Texian revolutionary forces at Goliad, flush with a small victory there, came to Lipantitlan to push out the small Mexican garrison, who happened to be away at the time. The next day, the returning Mexican forces attacked the Texians, who had superior weaponry, and suffered a small defeat before retreating into Mexico and leaving only the garrison at Béxar within the borders of what is now Texas. (Later, of course, that garrison would surrender and retreat, after which a major army would march north under Santa Anna in a doomed effort to exact vengeance and re-establish control.)

There is absolutely nothing left of the fortifications at Lipantitlan, but that didn't stop us from standing there in the tiny state park and speculating knowledgeably about Texas history and military strategies. It was a nice diversion on the otherwise-dull three-hour drive to the Island.

We got to our condo a couple of hours later than planned, because of those two stops, and found that the registration paperwork left for us was incorrect. Office closed until Monday, so won't worry about it until then. Friday evening we drove over to Snoopy's for dinner. That's a seafood place that stands on an island bordering the Intracoastal Canal. The name, in gigantic letters on the roof facing our condo across Laguna Madre, makes it kind of a landmark for owners at Puente Vista. It's traditional to eat there at least once every time we come to town. Sometimes it's especially good. Last time I was here, 3 years ago with Mike, we were there for sunset, which, from a table on the back deck, was spectacular; this time, a little earlier in the day, and from a table in the darkest corner of the dining room, right under a loudspeaker announcing whose orders were ready, it was less wonderful. But the margaritas were adequate for requirements, and I controlled myself by ordering a Greek salad with a mediocre crab cake added. No one was seriously dissatisfied, so I suppose that counts as a win. 

The rest of the evening was spent on our back porch, staring out across the Lagoon and solving all the world's problems; something we do as well as anyone.

Saturday started with breakfast at a Mexican restaurant a little way down the island. The food was pretty good (I'll give it three and a half jalapeños, out of 5), as was the value (also three and a half); the ambience was a little on the loud side (two and a half jalapeños) and the service was very good until we were ready for the check, at which point it ground to a halt (two jalapeños). Still, I'd go back. That was followed by  three hours glued to the television while Liverpool scraped past Chelsea in the FA Cup Final (6-5 on penalties). We'd planned to watch it at a bar, but couldn't find one that was open before noon. Apparently a city of 300,000 is too small for that level of opportunity to drink. Our plans were saved when it was discovered that Nancy's Disney-Plus subscription includes ESPN+. And she had brought her Fire Stick.

I don't know what that is, but it worked.

Three hundred thousand is not too small, however, to offer a good distillery, which I'd read about in Texas Highways, and was interested in because they produce a version of chartreuse liqueur. I sampled that, and found it refreshing, while the others shared two flights of various boozes produced by the house (gin, vermouth, whatever...). It was relaxing if not cheap. That stop was followed by the obligatory visit to HEB to stock up on essentials for the condo. 

After a scintillating round of miniature golf (which I did not lose) a leisurely dinner followed, at an Italian place with enjoyable live music and fair-quality food and service. Afterwards, we went back to the condo and played Hoopla until bedtime.

The rest of the weekend was taken up by a trip up to Aransas National Wildlife Refuge, a couple of hours up the coast from here. It was kind of a disappointing trip, in that we saw very little in the way of wildlife -- one alligator eating a bird, a few others unmoving in the water; a few herons, a handful of other birds, scattered deer. But nothing to really get excited about. No snakes, no bobcats, no spiders, not even a distant peccary. It was like all the wildlife was away at a seminar.


The photo album for this trip can be seen by clicking this link.

Wednesday, March 2, 2022

Just Wondering...

 Like most people, I've been sort of following Russia's war of conquest in Ukraine this past week. I have no military experience, and I don't really know what things are like over there. But I've been fascinated by the week-long saga of the "40-mile-long convoy" approaching Kyiv from the north. Satellite photographs of the slow-moving gaggle of Russian trucks, tanks and other military vehicles have been all over the internet and the news since it started. I heard one American military expert say that the vehicles have to stick to the roads because the ground is not "frozen hard" as it normally is this time of year, and it won't support the great weight of these Russian vehicles.

 So I'm wondering, how come the Ukrainians haven't tossed some anti-tank weapons in the back of a Land Rover or some other off-road vehicle, and driven out there, and destroyed some of these vehicles? I mean, it just seems like (a) everybody knows where they are, and (b) they're moving really slowly. Seems like a few excursions to put two or three of the leading vehicles out of action would block the road for a time and bring the already leisurely advance of the column to a complete halt. It seems like it ought to be a turkey shoot.

 I'm sure there are reasons why this hasn't happened. Or maybe it has, and nobody has reported it. But I sure would like to hear an explanation of why it hasn't. Hell, if that sort of invading column were creeping down US 36, advancing on Denver, you know the fields either side of the road would be full of good ol' boys in Jeeps and on ATVs taking turns blowing up a tank here, an armoured personnel carrier there. I know from previous reporting that Ukraine has the sort of weapons needed -- some of them, anyway. Why haven't we seen video of Russian soldiers trying to push destroyed tanks off the roadway?

 I'd just really like an explanation.

Thursday, December 9, 2021

What Makes a Car Museum Any Good?

The article below is also published on the blog for automuseumguide.

There was a time when I thought of automotive museums as nothing more than an occasional diversion, something to be discovered unexpectedly in a location far from home. I remember, for example, coming across a billboard advertising a car museum in some small town in East Texas; it was many years ago, and may have been the first time I went to such a place. There were about twenty cars in a line, most of them older than me (I was born during the Eisenhower administration), and it cost next to nothing to walk through and see them.

    I've always liked cars. Like most boys in the 1960s and ‘70s, I could identify almost every car on the road from three blocks away. So it was a good bet that I'd enjoy seeing all those cars lined up in that old brick building. I expected that. What I didn't expect, though, was this: that line of old cars made me realize -- and begin to appreciate -- automobile design and styling as an art form. 

Somebody at corporate liked it...
    Cars were uniquely distinctive in my youth, as styling came down from the exuberant extravagance of the 1950s. In those days, no one could have mistaken a Chevrolet for a Ford, or a Ford for a Dodge. Even marques of the same corporation — GM, Ford, Chrysler (in those days, pretty much everything on the road was from one of those three companies, or Volkswagen) — were clearly set apart from one another by their styling, though that was beginning to change. Cars were things of beauty, or its opposite. The joy of seeing a '72 Grand Prix was palpable and inspiring; seeing a '67 was not. A rare glimpse of an E-type Jaguar was something to be remembered and talked about; the sight of a pale green 1962 Renault Dauphine remains with me nearly sixty years later. The offputting lumps and bulges of many a Plymouth were things to snicker at. (I had my preferences, and they’ve stayed with me to this day.)



    Even later, when car designers seemed to be avoiding flair with near-religious fervour, choosing body parts from a catalog like a postmodern architect of strip shopping centers, the styling of new models was something to be focused on. How could anyone actually want those funny-looking taillights, that hideous grille? Why don’t car companies try for classic proportion, an elegant line, the inspiring shape that makes blood pump faster? Why make a car that looks like shoe box à la mode, or an over-inflated bladder?


    It’s that fascination with design and styling, and the choices made long ago by stylists and corporate executives, that brings me into car museums today. Now that automotive museums have shifted from a discovery to a destination in my travels, I’ve come to see more clearly the progression from the horseless carriages to pragmatic sheet-metal boxes of the early 20th Century, to the committee designs of the early 21st. I’ve come to appreciate aerodynamics, materials choices, Virgil Exner and Harley Earl, and the way one car’s design is inspired by another. And it still fascinates me.

   Many people are more interested in what’s under the skin of a car. Lots of guys want to know how the motor is laid out, what tweaks to the power plant have been made, what inspired engineering has changed the way a car runs and looks. They are mechanically minded, and may know what difference a four-barrel carburetor made, while I’m not really sure what that is.

    I think about engineering in terms of design, myself: how did the development of suspension systems change the height of a car’s waist?  What determined the relative length of its hood? the design of the wheel wells? the number and placement of headlights? The density of flourishes?  How did improvements in glassmaking change the way windshields are designed? Was engineering the kiss of death for the running board, or was it paved roads (or just fashion)? And as a retired lawyer, I see regulatory changes in the same way: why did bumpers go from one form to another, to another, to another over the years? How did safety requirements change the styling of the B-pillar, and what design changes were made necessary by changes to regulations of gas tanks? When fuel-efficiency regulations doomed the heavy chromed steel and the capacious trunk, just how did the demise proceed from year to year?
heavy chromed steel: 1953 Buick Roadmaster


    All those thoughts come to mind when I visit a car museum, but in the end, the main objective of my visit is seeing the beauty of the finished product. I visit car museums now the way others visit art museums. I want to see magnificent mechanical creations, I want to linger over the fairing of a headlamp and the line of a door sill. And I want to be able to photograph it.

    I’ve reached the point in life where the only souvenirs worth having (now that the house is furnished to excess with bric-a-brac) are memories, embodied in T-shirts, fridge magnets, and photographs. (In fact, I’ve even reached the point where I have to be selective about T-shirts and fridge magnets.) But I keep two digital frames facing my favourite chair, one in landscape orientation, the other in portrait; and on each are thousands of photographs I’ve taken in a lifetime, changing twice a minute. When the photograph of a fender or grille comes up, I feel a frisson of pleasure, remembering the car in the picture, and by extension, the museum where I saw it, the town it was in, the trip that put me there.

    And taken all together, I can think about what made one auto museum a pleasure, while another was a disappointment. Having seen more than twenty such museums now, I think I can say what to look for in a car museum.

    It comes down to three main things:

  • the qualities of the collection;
  • the visitor’s access to the display; and
  • the information given about the cars.
 
 
Don Laughlin Museum, Laughlin, Nevada



The Collection

    What’s in a museum’s collection of cars? Is it a carefully collected group of vehicles, or a smorgasbord? Does it include unusual vehicles? Exotic ones? Important ones? Are they restored, or do they look like they just came out of the barn? Are they representative of something in particular?

    Consider the Auburn-Cord-Duesenburg Museum in Indiana. I don’t know how big its collection is now, but when I went there about ten years ago, there were only about twenty or twenty-five cars on display. All were glamourous relics of America between the world wars, lovingly restored to showroom quality (fitting, since the museum is in an old car showroom). This museum’s purpose was to showcase the exceptional qualities of design and engineering of three local manufacturers.

Panhard Dynamic
   Or the Tampa Bay Automobile Museum in Pinellas Park, Florida: its collection is focussed mainly on European cars, and at least half of what I saw dated to the Interwar years. It included a unique replica of one of the most important vehicles in automotive history, Cugnot’s gigantic 18th-Century steam engine. It also contained more than one automotive oddity, like a Panhard Dynamic from the 1930s, a French car notable for its centrally-placed steering wheel as well as its elegant and unusual design details; or a German car that reminded people of a loaf of bread (the 1925 Hanomat “Kommisbrot”).

    Both of these are examples of good car museums with specialty collections, and I’d put both among the top museums I’ve seen so far. Other such museums would include the Nethercutt Collection in Sylmar, California, and the Mullin Museum in Oxnard. Examples of top museums with more general collections would include the Petersen, in Los Angeles, and the National, in Reno. These museums are sufficiently well-funded to have the entire range of vehicles, and large enough to display a great many at one time.

    If size of the collection on display were the determining factor in a museum’s quality, the Auburn-Cord-Duesenberg might not make the cut, while the Pioneer Museum, in Murdo, South Dakota, would. So would Elmer’s Auto and Toy Museum, in Fountain City, Wisconsin. There are car collections in the U.S. that number over a thousand. But how much time am I willing to spend looking at cars in one stretch?

    The answer to that, I find, is, about two hours, tops, and that's only long enough to see about forty well-displayed cars.

 
 
Grice Auto Museum, Clearfield PA

The Display

    Like most car museums, Elmer’s is the result of one man’s love of cars. I have the feeling that, if I had the money, it’s the kind of collection I would put together. There are lots of collections like that around; most car museums start out as one man’s baby, and how it goes from there depends on many things, most especially money and objective. The family that owns Elmer’s seems to have had enough funds available to put together a sizeable collection, but their objective isn’t focussed on anything beyond showing visitors what-all they have: not just a lot of cars, but tractors, motorcycles, bicycles and toys. In fact, the most memorable part of the museum (besides its location) was the building containing most of the toy collection. I could get lost in there, and nearly did.

    They have a lot of things to show, and they show it. They show all of it. The problem is that, as an aficionado of automotive design and styling, I can’t enjoy it as much as I would expect to, because of how it’s put together. The cars are shown in a series of barn-like buildings spread over the top of a high hill. (The view from there is another thing they have to show off to visitors.) Inside each building, cars are crammed in with just enough room for an aisle down the middle. There’s no way to see the back end of most cars, or even the sides; and the lighting is so basic that it’s difficult to make out details, or to get a good photo. (In fact, looking back through my ten thousand pictures, I see that I took not one photo when I visited Elmer’s.)

    The pictures on the museum’s website illustrate what I consider the major flaw in this type of display. An early-50s Chevy sits between a mid-60s Thunderbird and a 1940s woody wagon, all barely visible behind other, unidentifiable cars. They’re so close together the doors can’t be opened; each one was obviously driven in and parked in no apparent order, then the driver got out and parked the next car right up against the one before. The only consideration seems to have been getting all of them in, and consequently a visitor can only see the exposed front end, and barely even that. If you’re interested in a side view, or the arrangement of instruments on the dashboard, or of tail lights or the shape of a rear bumper — anything but a front view — you’re out of luck.

    There's a similar problem at the Pioneer Museum. The collection seems huge, and includes such unusual and important cars as a Chrysler Airflow sedan and the world’s first solar-powered vehicle. Both these significant cars were stored in an open shed when I visited, and coated in thick dust. My presumption is that the owners of the museum lack the space to store — and the money to restore — these vehicles and many others the way they deserve. And as at Elmer’s, decent photographs at the Pioneer are a tough ask. The Pioneer’s cars are parked with room to walk along the side of each car, but they’re also bumper-to-bumper, putting two or three sides of each vehicle out of reach and out of sight.

    I should point out that both these museums are in pretty remote places: one in rural western Wisconsin, the other in south-central South Dakota: in small towns far from any large city, and from any major attraction. At least partly as a result of this, they simply don’t have the financial resources to operate in the same upscale way as, say, a museum in southern California. The bulk of whatever revenue they do get from entry fees is probably barely enough to keep the lights on, and it may seem ridiculous to them to choose to display only a fraction of their entire collection at any one time, so that those cars can be appreciated fully by visitors, rather than the chosen method of putting everything out there, even if it mean that most of each car is inaccessible to visitors’ view. They may be right, but among the costs of that decision is the fact that visitors who do turn up, already unlikely to come back, will pass on their unfavourable views of the museum any time the subject comes up.

    Other museums give each car greater space, but put up different kinds of barriers to enjoyment, often as much a matter of security as of cost. For example, the excellent Nethercutt Collection has two large buildings in California’s San Fernando Valley. In the smaller building, exquisite vehicles are spaced widely around the room, and visitors are allowed to wander through the exhibition as they please for a set time, under the watchful eye of docents. (The entire display -- room, cars, décor -- is designed like a car dealership of about 1925.)
some of the Rolls-Royces lined up at the Nethercutt
But across the street, in the larger building, cars are lined up side-by-side, in rows like an angle-parking lot. There’s enough space between them to allow fair views of the fronts and most sides, but visitors are kept at a distance by velvet ropes. The visitor can see only one angle of the cars’ lines; nothing inside the vehicle; and nothing of the cars’ rear ends, except what may chance to be visible from the next aisle over: a tail light, maybe; rarely more. And if the line of cars is next to the wall, then even that little bit can't be seen.

    All three of these collections demonstrate the limitations of space and money. Would it be better to show fewer cars, but allow room for each to be appreciated in full? Is it better to leave an important car like the Airflow out in a shed, where it can be seen (at least, some parts of it), or move it to a clean storage area not open to the public? What if the museum doesn’t have such an area, and can’t afford to create one? Is it maybe time for the museum to see about loaning out some vehicles?
 
    There are other barriers to a full enjoyment of the display. Many museums place descriptive signs on pedestals in front of each of their cars. This is the primary means of conveying information about the car on display. Unfortunately, for someone like me who wants good photos of the cars, these signs are too often put right in front of the car, instead of a little off to the side. I’ve gotten to the point where I almost automatically move the signs to one side in order to photograph the car, but sometimes the signs themselves are out of reach, behind velvet ropes. Since pictures are, to me, the most important souvenir of my visit to the museum, having my view of the car blocked by a sign, however informative, leaves a poor impression in my mind. The sign is like your sister’s new boyfriend: you may invite him to Christmas dinner at the house for her sake, and you may be interested in what he says, but you don’t really want him in the pictures.
    
    
The Nethercutt Collection's Lower Salon
Obviously, auto museums are concerned about visitors damaging their expensive vehicles, and rightly so. When I visited the Nethercutt’s “Lower Salon,” where a couple of dozen visitors are watched by two or three docents, I was pleasantly surprised to see that there was no damage visible on any of the thirty or so cars in the room. The same is true of the National Museum’s collection, in Reno. By contrast, when I was at the Mullin Museum a year later, I was saddened to see that a spectacular red Delahaye Cabriolet, one of the most beautiful cars I’ve ever seen, had been lightly scratched on its fender by some previous visitor. It was minor scratching, possibly unintentional, and barely noticeable, but it illustrates the risk a museum runs by allowing such access to these wonderful exhibits.

  
the Petersen Museum, L.A.

A mixed approach is the one used by, for example, the Petersen Museum in Los Angeles. Some of the cars are kept behind wire cords, and all are watched over by docents. (I’ve heard that there’s some kind of electronic security related to the wires around the vehicles, but I don’t know if that’s true.) And a number of vehicles are placed on raised and bordered podiums. This sets the cars apart from the visitor without restricting the visual experience; in fact, by raising the car closer to eye level, it makes the lines and attributes of the car easier to appreciate in many ways, and certainly easier for old farts like me to photograph. (I can still remember discovering just how hard it is to get down on one knee to photograph some detail of a car at the Wheels of Yesteryear Museum in Myrtle Beach. Well, not so much getting down as getting back up.) Plus, the platforms themselves provide large spaces for signage that doesn't interfere with the views of the artworks being exhibited.

    And what about the engine compartments, the trunks, the doors? Some visitors are particularly interested in seeing inside the cars. I, for example, am always curious to see how gauges and instruments are laid out on the dashboard, and what peculiar things a manufacturer thought worth the cost of including in 1935 or 1950. I can often see these things through the side window, if I’m allowed to get to the side window. But how  do you access the back seat of a coupe? I don’t expect to be allowed to try moving the front seat. Or, what’s in all the little cubbyholes in a car: the glove box, the seatback pocket, the console? What’s under the hood? How is the motor designed and laid out? How much empty space is in there? How large is the trunk? What archaic things might it contain? Tools? Spare tires? Picnic baskets or suitcases? In most cases, I’ll never know, because in most cases there’s no docent there to open that door, that hood, that trunk, or at least describe to me what I would see if he or she could open it.

    Some museums choose to deal with this problem by displaying some cars with the hood up, or the trunk open, or a door swung wide. This is helpful to those who want to see what’s under the skin (and that includes me), but it also interferes with appreciation of a car’s lines. In the San Diego Automotive Museum, one of the best I’ve been to, a number of cars were shown with doors, hoods and trunks open. This was fine in most cases: after all, the main thing about a ’68 Dodge Coronet is what’s under the hood. But two of their most beautiful cars, a ’53 Jaguar XK-120 and a ’58 Mercedes coupe, were shown with the hoods open, meaning that the glorious lines of those two singular cars could not really be appreciated. I regret this fact every time I see the pictures I took of them. (In the Mercedes’ case, the doors were also open, but that’s OK. The gull-wing doors are the car’s most interesting and innovative feature, along with the custom-made luggage stored in the back of the cabin.)

    Other museums deal with the problem by having docents on hand to talk about what’s under the hood, and explain what’s inside. In some ways, this is the best possible solution. These are people, whether volunteers or paid, who have frequent intimate exposure to the car, and they can talk about them with authority. Sometimes they’re authorized to open and close doors and hoods and trunks, but even if they’re not, I find it useful to have someone there to explain how a feature works, and what that thingamajig on the floor is, and talk generally about the cars and their history and design. (Why are there so many hinges on each door of the Duesenburg Twenty-Grand? What’s that odd little pedal for, in the passenger side footwell of the 1924 Mercedes Targa Florio? Just how loud is Steve McQueen’s 1955 Jaguar XKSS? And what’s that brass tube on the side of the 1911 Stanley Steamer, that looks like it belongs on a circus organ? Thanks to knowledgeable docents, I now know these things. Or used to: I forget why the Twenty-Grand has four hinges on each door.

    Lastly, a car museum’s lighting is vital to the display of the cars. At some museums, especially the larger (and probably richer) ones, this issue has been carefully thought out. The Petersen, the National, and the San Diego museums are the best surviving examples I know of; Dick’s Classic Garage, in San Marcos, Texas, was another, but it closed a couple of months after my visit and the collection was sold off. In these museums, every car is well-lit, and only the glare from the highly-polished bodies creates a dilemma for amateur photographers like me. The Mullin Museum is mostly in this same top category, though the cars upstairs aren’t as kindly lit. The Tampa Bay museum is a similar example, where almost the whole display area is thoughtfully lit, except one small room with a glass wall where Florida sun was allowed to stream in and ruin my pictures. And the Nethercutt has excellent lighting in both its buildings, except for the cars between the front door and the desk in the larger building, where the blinding glare of Southern California’s morning sun kept me from getting decent pictures of a couple of stunning 1930s-era coupes (a ’31 Bugatti and a ’36 Talbot-Lago, if you’re curious).

    Some museums, though, are way too dark. Even if there’s adequate light on one part of a car, too often much of the body is hidden in shadow. At both Elmer’s and The Pioneer, for instance, there was little thought given to lighting. Maybe that’s because those places operate more or less at break-even, spending available funds on operations. One of the reasons I didn’t take any pictures at Elmer’s was, as I recall, that I couldn’t get a decent shot in the darkness of the display barns, even if I could see enough of a vehicle to make a photograph worth taking. And at the Pioneer, I probably took fifty or sixty photographs, with and without flash, but deleted all but a handful because they just weren’t worth the photons. Even the ones worth keeping are poorly lit.

    Sun is a killer for the visitor who wants to photograph the beauties on display. Poor lighting leaves a lasting impression: every time I see my sad pictures of that ’36 Talbot-Lago at the Nethercutt, I feel a little less favourably disposed to that otherwise excellent museum. (The phrase “Go into the light” comes to mind.) And every time I see my pictures from the Lane Motor Museum — a museum that was enough of a draw for me to require two trips to Nashville — I think two things: they have an uncommon and interesting collection, and they really need to paint over the glass that makes up much of the ceiling. Almost all my shots of their cars — almost all my memories of the place — are flawed by glare and shadow.





Nethercutt Collection, Sylmar CA
Information

    I suspect every visitor to a car museum, and certainly every regular visitor like me, wants to know about the cars on display. I can recognize a 1957 Chevy Bel Air, but there are lots of interesting facts about even that most familiar old car that would be worth putting in front of a visitor. One that I saw at the Tallahassee Automobile Museum, for example, had a sign describing an optional “traffic signal reflector” mounted on the car’s dashboard. But few old cars are as widely familiar as a ’57 Chevy. The cars displayed have to be identified and described.

    How a museum chooses to communicate information to the visitor goes a long way in determining what a visitor will think about the museum.

    Short of providing guided tours to each visitor, an economic impossibility, or a flock of docents trained in the details about each vehicle in a section of the museum, signage is the best way to convey information. (Recorded audiotours, such are common in art museums and zoos, may be feasible too, but I don’t know a thing about the technology involved: how it’s done, what it costs, or how well it works; and my own experiences with audio guides isn’t a source of inspiration to me.)

    Signage relating to each car should convey, at an absolute minimum, the car’s make, model and year. (And — I shouldn’t have to say it, but I do — that information should be accurate.) I’d have thought that every museum’s people would know this, and provide for it accordingly. But now I know that, in fact, it’s not treated as a rule in all cases.

    A lot of museums operate on a shoestring, and visitors are willing to cut them a lot of slack, as for example when cars are newly added. But even the most bare-bones automotive museum ought to be able to afford a piece of paper mounted on a windshield, even if it has to be hand-printed. My experience shows, though, that even this isn’t always done. I have to believe that it’s because the operators of these museums just don’t give a damn about such things; and if they don’t care enough to properly label their cars with that basic information, then why should I spend my money to see what’s on their floor?

    The more information a museum provides, the better: about the history of the car and the manufacturer; mechanical and design information; engineering information, production and marketing information, sales information. No museum that I’ve ever seen provides too much. The best, though, will tell visitors a little about the history of a car. Consider this example from the Tampa Bay Automobile Museum, which is one of the very best I’ve seen at passing along information about the cars in their collection:

1942 Mathis VL333 Prototype

Mathis was a firm in Alsace, France, that produced cars between 1910 and 1950. Before WWII, Mathis was the number 4 car manufacturer in France. The VL333 is built from 20 guage aluminum sheet metal. The body is welded together with nearly 6,000 weld points. There is no chassis, it is a bubble. The engine is a flat twin 700 cc and the car is front-wheel drive with a fully independent suspension. Only 9 Prototypes were made during the war from 1940 to 1945; they were hidden from the Germans, as any work on automobiles for the civilian sector was forbidden.

The car in front of you was presented at the Paris Auto Show in 1945. Unfortunately, the French Government refused Mathis acces to supplies to manufacture the car. The VL333 was doomed and this car is the only survivor.


Wow. That amount of information is great! Pedants and English majors will quibble about the punctuation — just try and stop us! But the rest of the world isn’t going to notice that. The museum’s reputation is enhanced as a result of all this information. It shows that they care about their car collection, and want their visitors to appreciate it as much as they do.  If I’m not interested in these details, I don’t have to read it all. And if I should want more, the sign quoted here has a QR code mounted above it.

    Another example of superior signage is the Don Laughlin Auto Museum in Nevada. Each vehicle is accompanied by an inexpensive printed sign. All give the minimum amount of information; some include specifications for the vehicle, like engine capacities, list price (one of my favourite bits of information, by the way) and details about the transmission; others include notable options on the car, or even a brief rundown of changes in the model over the production run. A few discuss the styling choices or the car’s place in the automobile market of its day.

    But even when the museum makes the effort to provide the information, proofreading is often the first corner cut. Spelling and punctuation are victims, perhaps, of our declining educational system, and it’s so common now that people like me have almost given up on the expectation that someone making a sign might know how to spell or use an apostrophe or a comma, or that they might ask someone who does know.

'63 Buick Riviera

  Besides, there are worse sins in the world. Consider this excerpt from a sign for a 1963 Buick Riviera: “They have machined on the face around the instruments and the glove box area.” There’s no context that might give a clue about what this is trying to say. I have no idea what it means; presumably it’s meant to convey some detail about the dashboard, but it appears a word (or more) has been left out. If I could have seen the dashboard I might have been able to tell, but the car was one of those parked behind a velvet rope.

    There are a lot of good automotive museums in this country, promising a lifetime of road trips in my future. Most start as the collection of one guy who loves cars, and who wants to show them to other car-lovers; and many remain just that. Those museums — like Elmer’s, like the Pioneer — do what they’re intended to do, and that’s fine for them, even if they tend to disappoint destination visitors like me. (No museum, I should probably say, has ever disappointed me completely. Even the most desolate collection of a dozen old cars has something of interest.) But the better the collection, the better the display, the better the information, then the more enjoyable the museum will be, and thus the better able to attract visitors.